Archive for March, 2009

Egypt: An Introduction (or) How to Survive Cairo for 7 Days

Monday, March 30th, 2009
The view from our window

The view from our window

Friday is the Muslim holy day. A day of rest and prayer and all that kinda crap. Among other things, this means it only takes ten minutes to find a safe break in the traffic by which to cross the road, as opposed to the normal hurl strategy: hurling yourself into the stream of cars and motorbikes and the occasional horse-drawn carriage an praying to your fuzzy lord that none of the drivers are trying to rewire their radios instead of watching the street at exactly that moment.

My way of describing the past week in Egypt: “It was a lot of fun. Never go to Cairo on vacation.” This may sound like a negative view of Cairo -which, generally speaking, it is- but don’t let that give the impression that I’m not glad I went. I am. Glad. Very glad. Hell, I’m strongly considering returning one day. Preferably with a fixer. In a situation where I’m working. Only working. Maybe being paid. Being able to truly embrace all the ways in which this self-hating tourism bastion of a country is collapsing. In short: it makes good pictures, but not a great vacation spot.

This sounds harsh … possibly more so than I actually intend it to (though probably just as harsh as I intend it to). I did, to reiterate, actually enjoy the trip. There were good people, pretty pictures, pleasant locations. But I’m more articulate when I bitch than when I’m talking about how some shit is nice and junk, so … I don’t know. Blame the filter. Blame the medium.

I'm a tourist.  Fuck you, too.

I'm a tourist. Fuck you, too.

Technical detail: I’m going to try and break the trip up into multiple posts. Because I’m lazy, mostly. I may even do something crazy, like link them all back through here. Although that seems somewhat random, seeing as all the posts will be higher than this one … hmm. It’s still tempting. An urge for interconnectedness, perhaps? An attempt at balance and organization? Well, likely more of an egotistical desire to make this thing easily navigatable for when I invariably attract millions of readers as a star of the blogosphere. Make it simpler for all the “n00bz” to skim through the early days where I toiled away as an unappreciated genius, before I was written up in some respectable print publication due to my witty commentary and chronicling of … something.

Okay, time to get to work on posts that actually have content.

[Squiggly line][Cat head][Eye][Squiggly line]

Saturday, March 21st, 2009

Egyptian for “See ya later.” Or possibly not.

In an hour I’ll be on my way to the airport to go to Egypt for a week. I’ll be doing all the tourist-y things and *shocking* taking pictures. Maybe I’ll remember to post them. Or sell them for millions of dollars. Probably the first one.

One of my editor’s parting words: “Don’t get ripped off.”

I'll see this view in a week.

I'll see this view in a week.

Rock.

Devil’s Peak

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

Excerpt from an e-mail of explanation sent to Anna after an early morning Gchat in which I’m sure I made no sense:
[...] last night Devil’s Peak basically went up in flames. I was killing time on Facebook, about to go to bed, when one of the other interns knocks on my door and just bursts in. About that moment was when I started to smell smoke. The entire mountain had disappeared: a puff (maybe a plume?) of grey-ish orange, occasionally red smoke just rolling out onto the entire city. So, like anyone who’s lost their mind, we headed out there.

“I spent about 4 hours runing around in the smoke and embers (seriously, blowing embers SUCK). [...] By the time I got home I couldn’t actually focus my eyes, they were so full of ash. My hair was standing on end with soot and the smoke inhalation made me want to vomit. It took me an hour just to import my photos for filing, a mix of exhaustion and near-blindness. The photos I ended up sending in were complete crap (though only mildly worse than most of what I had … none of it was too good, sadly).”

My eyes are still burning (although the eyedrops help) and most of my photos were, in fact, crap. A mix of out-of-focus and just missing the moment and (here’s the odd one) not moving deep enough into the scene. That last one is what bothers me: I always move closer. I have a fairly blatant disregard for my own safety a lot of the time. But something about the smoke and the embers and the exhaustion … I just didn’t have it in me to give 100%. Oh well. There’ll always be more fires.

My favorite photo from the night, and it doesn't tell the story in the slightest.  Le sigh.

My favorite photo from the night, and it doesn't tell the story in the slightest. Le sigh.

It Was Inevitable

Sunday, March 15th, 2009

smr_0114

I don’t think I bothered predicting in print that I would be horrible at keeping this thing updated. But go figure.

  • Can drive manual transmission.

  • Shot a rugby practice.
  • Went to a rugby match.
  • Switching off between reading The Sandman and a Che diary. Sadly (for the sake of my attempts at intellectualism) the comic book is winning.
  • Parents are in town (how did I almost forget that?).
  • Going to Egypt in less than a week (not just because my parents are in town) (maybe I’ll blog about it? Knock on wood).
  • Finally starting to accept that I’ll probably have to go back to school in three and a half months (boo).
  • Sweaty.
  • Ate a shit ton of salad.
  • Rambling (bambling?).

I want to shoot more fires (they make for pretty pictures) but the fire season might finally be ending. Oh well. Flood season is just around the corner.

dsc_0090

Oh, and I forgot one:

  • Got a cracked CS3! Yay!

Please don’t sue me, Adobe.

Paparazzi “R” Us

Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

Paparazzo (pä’pə-rät’sō): A freelance photographer who doggedly pursues celebrities to take candid pictures for sale to magazines and newspapers.

Do I consider myself a paparazzo? No. Definitely not. Well, I used to think definitely not. Now just not fully. Not all the time, anyway. I mean, I do other things. Really.

At what point is it a news event and at what point are we invading the lives of people in private situations? Obviously I’m not the first photog to ask this and I obviously haven’t had to deal with the problem in the most serious cases. But let’s take an instance I’ve become more familiar with over the years (and that I dealt with today, thus my thinking to bring it up): funerals.

The recently deceased's mother

The recently deceased's mother

Today I attended the funeral for Cytheria Elaine Rex, who was brutally murdered on 22 February. I don’t remember the story exactly, but the general layout is that she was (allegedly) raped by a group of tik users then murdered and then I think they cut out her intestines or something along those lines (don’t quote me - but it was rather fucked up). So ignore the crap quality of the photograph and tell me: newsworthy in the gruesomeness of the murder? Should there have been over a half dozen journalists at this funeral of maybe 150 people?

That one’s more of a question of moral guidelines to me. At some point you just have to ask when it’s appropriate to keep shooting and when you should keep taking photos. And I’ve hardly the experience to start tackling that one. It’s the ongoing question and I haven’t had to deal with the real shit situations where that decision - of when the job has to stop and the humanity has to kick in - is really serious (see: The Bang-Bang Club).

dsc_0591For more on the purely paparazzi side of it: J Arthur Brown’s co-accused, Jacobus Theart. This isn’t the first time I’ve done the “court” jobs (I swear I’ve shot … ahem, “taken pictures of” Marius van der Westhuizen more times than I can count), but it’s definitely the one for which I feel most paparazz-ish (Paparazz? Paparazzi-ish? Paparazzo-ish?). Seriously, running down the street with two other photogs alongside a guy who’s trying to walk as quickly as he can down the street to get away from us … makes you feel a little dead inside. So do the funerals. So do the various “paparazz”. But it’s part of the job, especially when it’s actually related to a real story. Isn’t it?

Of course, this can bring about the questions of at what point it’s acceptable to take a photograph in any extent. Take a photo of that fire that’s just starting, or wait for it to catch more? Or put it out, like a good, moral human being does? That, alas, is a discussion I rarely cherish having and, as such, I will choose to skip for tonight.